HSF Challenge #22 – Fortnighter’s Choice, Men’s Garment

I have always liked the images of 18th century men at leisure in their banyans.  So, for this challenge I choose those images as my inspiration.

 

Above painting of Ward Nicolas Boylston, painted by John Singleton Copley, 1767, Wikipedi Image, Painting Harvard University

 

These banyan images are from the Met Museum, New York

I choose the 1740s – 1770s as a style range.  I favored the more fuller banyans, however, there were images of tailored banyans also worn at this time as well.  So, I guess that it boiled down to a personal preference on the part of the gentleman.

Once again my person challenge was to use fabric and patterns that I had on hand to create my inspiration banyan and waistcoat.

You can clearly see the gores added to the  banyan in the pictures from the Met Museum, center back gore, side gores.  These gores will help add fullness.

The waistcoat I made first.  I already had an 18th century shirt with ruffles and fall front breeches.  I used Lynn McMaster;s 18th Century Waistcoat pattern.

The pattern makes up a rather long waistcoat,  1730s  – 1740s.  I shorten the pattern to portray a later waistcoat style, 1760 – 1770s.

I found this fabric just about 1 1/2 yards at a new fabric place for $3. It was only about 30 inches wide.  So it was just enough to make the waistcoat.

Also, I know that I had planned to use only stash fabric, but I found the perfect fabric at Jomar’s here in Philadelphia. Remnant of course, there was only 3 3/4 yards.  The print had a very eastern feel and it would work with the burgundy floral remnant that I had already picked up from another fabric store.

The waistcoat went together quite quickly in spite of my sewing machine.

Once that was done, I immediately started to work on the banyan.  I had made the banyan several years ago at the very beginning of my historical costume sewing hobby. I used the Rocking Horse Farm Pattern.  The first time around, banyan, came out alright. I certainly wanted to do a better job this time around.

This is the picture illustration from the Rocking Horse Farm 18th Century Banyan Pattern.  This pattern contains a little collar which you can just see under the ruffles of the shirt.  I decided to leave that off.  I added side and back gores.  To help with the fullness, I took the gores all the way up to the underarm and sleeve joining and the back gore to about the same distance as the side gores.

You can clearly see the side gores and the back gores.  However, these gores don’t go quite as high up as I took mine.

Picture of the side gore.  I was worried about the pattern, but it is so busy that it kind of blends in and you don’t notice the gores.

Closer look at the side gore.

The back gore also came out well.  These gores really do work and they added a lot of fullness just as I wanted.

That double fold down the back is created by the back gore.  I had just enough velvet to accent the turned back cuffs.

 

You can see the fullness that the gores have added by  side front folds of fabric.  This was what I wanted.

 

I really fell in love with the fabric for the banyan at Jomar’s.  I kept picking it up and putting it down.  I am so glad that I bought it.  The burgundy floral and Eastern Oriental favor of the fabric compliment each other.

I chose a dark burgundy lining material for the banyan.  I did not have enough for the sleeves lining. I used another fabric and added the velvet as a final touch.

 

Closer look of the banyan with waistcoat and velvet turned back sleeves.

 

Max helping with the pattern layout.  You can see the back of the waistcoat. I used the fashion fabric for the back of the waistcoat since I had enough.  A lot of the waistcoats from this period would use another fabric or lining fabric for the back since it was not seen.

Inspiration Image

My Banyan and Waistcoat

 

A closer look at the lining. I wanted the lining to be just as luxurious as the outer fabric.

 

I am pleased with the final results.

The Challenge: #22 Fortnighters – Man’s Garment Inspiration

Fabric: Floral Cotton Brocade, Cotton Brocade

Patterns: Lynn McMaster’s  18th Century Waistcoat Pattern

                  Rocking Horse Farm 18th Century Banyan Pattern

Historically Accurate: I don’t know – The final results look like the paintings and the museum pieces.

Hours to complete: 3 weeks, mostly weekend work

First worn:

Cost: Under $20.00